Q. Do you think it slows your board down if you have a little bit of wax on the bottom?
A. Honestly I think it does slow you down a little bit. It has too as it makes for drag. How much and what sort of effect it has is questionable. Back in the dark ages we used to stack boards on the roof racks of the car and wax on the bottoms was pretty common. But those old things were so slow anyway that I am sure it made little or no difference. With the lighter and faster modern boards the effect is probably much greater. And faster is better. So clean off the bottom.
Q. Who would you consider the greatest surfboard shaper?
A. Impossible question. There are many great shapers. There are guys who can make a perfect surfboard. Then there have been guys who are not as good yet for some reason make boards that work great. One of the guys from back in the days of my pro career who could do both was Terry Martin. I think Terry still shapes. If he does then I would guess that he has shaped more boards than any other human being. That dude could made beautiful boards that always seemed to come with that little bit of magic.
Q. My brother is always going surfing at someplace called T street. Today my mom and I were going to go watch him surf but we had no idea where T street was. So, we didn’t go. For future days, where is that?
A. If I told you the locals would kill me. Actually it is not a secret spot. But years ago the surfers who live in the town where it is at nicknamed it “T” street in an effort to not tell out of towners the real name and keep the crowds down. So I will not break the trust. I will tell you though that it is in southern Orange County and is at the base of a street that starts with the letter T. Good luck
Q. I’m wondering if you could help me out I recently picked up an old single fin Corky Carroll “Spacesticks” its 5′8″ and 20′ wide…its pretty beat up but I love surfing these older boards they have such an awesome feeling to ‘em so I couldn’t resist. I’m wondering if you know when it was made and any other information about it, my guess is somewhere around 1971ish. I just can’t seem to find any info on it at all so I figured I’d go to the source.
A. From what you say I am thinking that your board would have been made between late 1970 and late 1972. ‘71 is a great guess. Most of those boards where shaped by either Terry Martin or Mickey Munoz. Spacesticks started with the original twin fin in the spring of 1970 and only lasted till the end of 1972 when I retired from pro surfing.
Q. What do you think of using surfing gloves to help with paddling?
A. There are pros and cons. The upside is that you can paddle faster. The downside is that they are sort of clumsy for getting up and holding on to your board during duck dives or turtle rolls. Another upside is you can catch more waves. Another downside is if you catch more waves everybody else out there are gonna get bummed out and give you a bad time. Probably the worst thing is that they look kinda funny and all your pals who don’t use them will rag you to death.
Q. I am a female surfer. Like many of us I got started in the sport as a result of seeing the movie “Blue Crush.” I was wondering who the first great girl surfer was. Was it Joyce Hoffman?
A. Actually there were a couple of really talented girls that came before Joyce. There were Marge Calhoun and then Linda Benson. Joyce was the real dominate female in competition during the sixties and then came Margo Oberg.
Q. I read your column on Stand Up Paddleboards. What is your take of surf skis?
A. People should be able to surf on whatever they want to surf on. But, that said, I am sort of from the hard core school of regular surfboards myself. What is difficult for us is when somebody comes into the lineup with a SUP or a kayak or surf ski and is able to take every good wave because they can catch them further out. It is sort of the same issue as short board riders have with longboard riders. We all wanna get the wave.
Q. Is Mickey Chapin the same guy as Mickey Dora?
A. Yes. Same dude. The late great Miki of Malibu, the Black Knight of Surfing, da Cat. I don’t know how the names came to play other than the fact that either his father or his step father was Guard Chapin, who was a top surfer of the 1940’s and early 50’s.
Q. You have experience with boards with all of the different fin concepts. What is the real difference between a quad fin set up and a twin fin, such as a fish?
A. The actual feel of a quad vs a twin is actually fairly similar. But the difference is in the board design that hosts the two different fin set ups. A quad is closer to a normal surfboard shape where a twin has a wider and thicker tail shape. Both work great in different conditions. A quad might be more versatile where a twin is hard to beat in waves that are thick and with full faces.
Q. If they came up with a professional competition tour for “masters” age surfers would you compete again?
A. I don’t think so. I have more or less lost my competitive drive and feel pretty good being out to pasture in that sense. But if there was enough money to make it worthwhile I might try one event to see how it felt. Although then I would be forced to get into better shape and I don’t see that happening anytime soon.
Q. There is a lot controversy over board surfers riding the Wedge in Balboa. What do you think?
A. The Wedge is first and foremost a bodysurfing spot and that should be respected. If guys want to go out early in the morning before the bodysurfers take over then good luck to them. It’s a pretty crazy spot to surf on a board.
Q. I am a college student at Long Beach State. I have been doing an experimental design project about wave heights along the California coast. I was wondering if you happen to know the average wave height at local orange county beaches? I am also researching the topography and shoreline to see if these factors affect the height of waves. I’d appreciate it if you could send some information or links where I can gather this information.
A. Yes, try www.surfline.com and www.wetsand.com. Both have lotsa information on exactly what you are asking for.
Q. I was safely and respectfully playing on shore, riding my wooden skim board last September (2008) at Corona Del Mar. The lifeguard came over and told me that skim board riding is not allowed on the beach at any time. Has this sport been outlawed at all CA beaches?
A. I had no idea that skimboarding was not allowed at any of our beaches. I am surprised to hear about this. But then you have to remember that in Corona Del Mar it is illegal to drink water unless it is Evian or Pellegrino. (just kidding) (kinda).
Q. During the early 1960’s there was Wardy Surf Boards as well a Mrs. Wilkes Custom Canvas Surf Trunks out of Laguna Beach . You write about Katin Canvas and old time Boards ,but not Wardy and Wilkes. What do you know about them? Just Curious as they seemed to be part of the pioneering of Surfing.
A. Actually I have written about both Fred Wardy and Mrs. Wilkes making custom surf trunks. But not lately. Wardy was a quality surfboard maker in Laguna Beach during the early and mid 1960’s. Mrs. Wilkes was the wife of surf legend Barney Wilkes and the mother of hot surfer John Wilkes. She made custom surf trunks out of her home during that same time period. Both Fred and Mrs. Wilkes made good stuff and are definitely surfing historical.
Q. Did you ever live in Cocoa Beach, Florida? I am sure I knew you there in the 70’s.
A. Nope, never lived on the East Coast but I sure went there a lot of times. Also have many great friends from that area, maybe you are a long lost one of those?
Q. I just saw one of your articles talking about a guy called “Tubesteak Tracey.” I remember him from the 1950’s when I lived in Santa Monica and used to surf at Malibu. Is he still alive?
A. Yes. I am very happy to report that Terry “Tubesteak” Tracey is still alive. Unfortunately he is not kicking much. Due to a severe case of elephant foot he has been forced to sand surf only for the past few years. But, as with everything else he has done in life, he does it with style.
Q. How many World titles can Kelly Slater win?
A. Probably as many as he wants too. But sooner or later the age bug will bite him as it does everybody at one time or another. I have a feeling he will go for number 10 and then be happy with that. Nine is nice…. but ten is a big number. Not sure his record will ever be matched or broken. Kelly has set the bar very, very, far very, high.
Q. I am growing surf bumps on my rib cages. I hear you have the biggest in the world. Is there any way to stop this, they don’t hurt but they look strange.
A. Tell me about it. People think I either have breasts or huge tumors. Either way, it’s embarrassing. I used to love breasts until I grew my own. Humph. Anyway, it’s hard to stop them once they start. The PaddleAir surf shirt is about the only thing I know that can help that. Or not surfing. I have just learned to live with mine.
Q. Lately I have been having more and more problems with chick surfers in the water who seem to think that just because they are girls they can get away with anything. Shouldn’t the rules go for everybody, male or female?
A. Rules? What rules? Sorry, I had to say that. But yes, you are right. Common courtesy should go for everybody in the water. In these times of such crowded surf conditions it’s important that EVERYBODY out there remember that the idea is to have fun and it should not matter what gender or anything else that you are.
Q. Do you think that Laird Hamilton is sending the wrong message to young surfers by doing ads for credit card use on television?
A. I am happy that Laird got that gig and NO, I don’t agree with that at all. In fact I remember when I was doing commercials for Miller Lite and somebody claimed I was giving surfing a bad name by doing beer commercials. The way I see it, in the times we live in, it is pretty hard to get by without having a credit card. Laird is not sending any bad message, just making a living. I wish they would have chosen me
Q. I’m a local looking for a special surf DVD for my husband for Christmas. He’s wanted “The Performers” (Quiksilver?) forever! Unfortunately, I’m having a really difficult time finding it. Any ideas?
A. I would think that you could call up Quiksilver (Huntington Beach) and they would either have it or be able to tell you where to get it. Also you could check Huntington Surf n Sport as they always seem to have every DVD known to man for sale.
Q. Today I was almost run down by a surfer on a wave when I was paddling out. Isn’t it the guy on the wave’s responsibility to go around people who are paddling out?
A. A big “NO” on that one dude. Think of it as riding a roller coaster. You do the ride and then you walk around and get back on. You do NOT walk in front of the oncoming cars. Surfing is the same way. Paddle around the break if you can. Always give way to the person riding the wave. The rider has the right of way.
Q. I am thinking of picking up a friend’s long board and using it as a paddle board. I am 185/190 lbs (should be 175). The board is 10 ft or 10′ 6”. Will that work? What is the difference in a long board and a paddle board?
A. No, that is not gonna work very well. A SUP (stand up paddleboard) is far thicker and wider than a normal longboard. They are made to be stable while standing even at a dead stop. A longboard will not float you well enough to stand up paddle on.
Q. Do you remember a surfer girl in Huntington Beach during the 1960’s that was called “ka Hunk?”
A. Absolutely. Pam Williams. She was wonderful. Really a cool girl, very fun to be around. She was a tad on the chubby side and surfers can be pretty insensitive when it comes to things like that. Hence the nickname. But she was fine with it. I have no idea what became of her, but if you know then tell her hi from me.
Q. I am writing to ask when you retired from surfing? I have 1972, but I just want to check that this is correct.
A. I did retire from professional surfing competition in 1972 yes. But I have stayed involved in the sport and surf industry my whole life in one way or another. Currently doing surf adventure packages to Mainland Mexico and writing surf stuff for the OC Register.
Q. Mike Doyle states in his book “Morning Glass” that you were somewhat of a brat when you were a kid. What do you think about that?
A. First off Mike has a right to his opinion. Second off he is totally correct. I was a huge brat and am proud of it. That’s my story and I’m stickin’ to it.
Q. What do you see in the future of surfboard design?
Q. What a great question. I see boards that go faster and with more speed the sport with continue to evolve and we will see greater surfing. Speed is the key.