By Corky Carroll

Going to the surf movies used to be a wonderful experience.  That was back in the day, geeze another “in the day” memory…sorry, when the surf movies were 16mm films and the guy who made them would be there showing them live and doing personal narration.  Usually the soundtrack was on a home tape recorder hooked into a sound system of some sort.  Everyone would show up at the High School auditorium or where ever the showing was, it was a real social event.  Newport Harbor High was famous for having all the surf films along with Pier Ave High in Redondo Beach.  Lots of hooting, especially during the “wipe out” sequence that all the films seem to include back then. 

Well, at least to some extent, those days might be back right here in Surf City.  The Shorebreak Hotel has launched a summer program called the “Shorebreak Surf Cinema.”  Surf Movies will be shown most Tuesday nights either on The Deck or in the Epic Ballroom.  Old school prices at only five bucks too.  This is actually kinda fitting as the Shorebreak Hotel sits on the very same location as the old Surf Theater, home of zillions of surf movie showings as well as the training ground for many of our senior citizens, who were younger then, kissing and heavy petting futures.  I mean, who in this town did not cop a feel, or have a feel copped, at the Surf Theater?  All of you, admit it.  I have no idea of any of that stuff will be going on at the Shorebreak Surf Cinema, or even if they do that anymore.  It seems todays youth is a tad more accelerated than ours was.  But ahhh, there was nothing better than sneaking out of the sock hops at the Pavilion to make out under the pier with whoever it was that you were lucky with at that time. 

Anyway, back to the point, it’s very cool to be able to go see surf films on a big screen with an audience.  It is way more fun that way.  Music pounding during the big wave sequence and everyone going “woooooooow!”  How cool is that?  Very cool.  And they are going to have door prizes.  I can remember being thirteen years old and winning a poster at a John Severson film, I was in surf puppy heaven. 

The Shorebreak is located at 500 Pacific Coast Hwy, HB, Ca.  Food and drinks will be available during the evening. Some of the films set to screen are: Sea Of Darkness by Michael Oblowitz, The Westsiders by Josh Polmer, Cancer To Capricorn and Gum For My Boat by Russell Brownely, Fiberglass and Megapixels by Derek and Craig Hoffman and An Evening With Timmy Turner.  All directors will be on hand and other special guests.

Hosted by California Surf Museum and the Shorebreak Hotel and with support from Surfline/Wavetrak, FUEL TV, Surfer Magazine, Rip Curl, Sticky Bumps, Dragon Alliance, EmergenC, HawaiiSurfHouse.com, Girls In The Curl and Reef.  For more information visit www.surfmuseum.org or call 760-721-6876 or visit The Shorebreak Hotel at www.shorebreakhotel.com

Be there or be square. 

By Corky Carroll

When you mention the name Henry Ford to most people they automatically think of the dude whose name is on all the Ford automobiles.  But to a surfer it’s a different Henry, the legendary Californian who is a mainstay in many aspects of our surfing culture.  The surfer, Henry Ford, is a classic dude. 

Henry started surfing along the sand bars in the south bay, Hermosa, Redondo, Manhattan and Torrance Beaches, way back in the early 1950’s. His mentors were Hoppy Swartz, the Meistrell brothers and Leroy Grannis. He was a star in many of Bruce Browns’ early surfing movies including “Slippery When Wet,” “Surfing Hollow Days” and “Barefoot Adventure.”  His surfing along the North shore of Oahu during those years gained him a reputation as one of the premier “hotdoggers” of the period.  During the era of surf clubs he, along with his pal and another classic surf legend, Freddy Phauler, were part of the infamous “Double Duce Danglers” of 22^nd Street in Hermosa Beach. He was also a regular at Malibu during the summers along with such notables as the surfing “king of pop” himself, Terry “Tube steak” Tracey, Mickey “da Cat” Dora, Johnny Fain, Mike Doyle, Mickey “the Mongoose” Munoz and “Gidget” herself. 

In the early years Henry spent his off surfing hours working in the sales shop for Velzy and Jacobs Surfboards, and later Jacobs Surfboards in Redondo Beach.  He was in charge of the surf team during its glory years with surf stars such as Lance Carson, Ricky Hatch, Johnny Fain and Robert August on the slate.  His gift of gab and excellent salesman attributes would eventually land him smack dab in the middle of the surfing industry.  He was also a lifeguard all over the south bay and Malibu area.

Henry moved to San Clemente, were he still lives, over twenty years ago and spent a long period working in the Stewart Surf Shop.  He also became involved in putting on surfing events, including the Rabbit Kekai Invitational in Costa Rica, which recently moved to Hawaii to make it easier on Rabbit, and others.  He would eventually move into the apparel section of the surfing business and found a home with Koko Island.  From there he landed with his current project “Gidget World-wide Promotions.”  Classic Henry, starting out in the Malibu crowd along with Gidget and now, at age 70 something, he winds up working with her.  Isn’t it good to know that some survive.

I have the good fortune to get to surf with Henry every now and then.  Usually he, along with Walter Hoffman and John Creed, will show up at one of my local spots when there is a good swell.  These dudes are really fun to surf with.  They are all old and dog-eared, well except for John Creed who should be slapped for not looking or acting his age, and yet they all can still charge when it comes to surfing.  Walter has a little bit of “Corkys

Syndrome,” a hard time getting to his feet, but once up he surfs just fine.  Henry is still a good surfer and has as much fun as anybody out there.  That is why I like him.  He is one of those dudes with a great sense of humor both in and out of the water, a big smile and always easy to get a laugh out of.  You can see him in the lineup or at some surfing trade show and it’s the same, a warm smile and an “it’s great to see ya” attitude.  

Henry is an inductee into the South Bay Surfers Hall of Fame and has been a successful competitor in surfing competitions for longer than I can remember.  Aside from his surfing accomplishments he was also acclaimed as a “Hero” for rescuing a mother and her children from a burning house in San Clemente a couple of years ago.  His comment was, “Well, the mom was kinda hot.”  I guess he meant because of the fire? 

Henry is one of the true colorful characters in the surfing world and is still in the thick of it on a daily basis.  I have no idea if he is in any way related to the car dude, but in surfing this stylish goofy-foot is a true icon.

By Corky Carroll

There seems to be a resurgence of surfing dogs these days.  They are even having surfing contests that are for them, holy barkalot.  I have known a few great surfing dogs through the years myself.  One that I remember very well was “Ajax.”  Ajax belonged to San Diego surfing legend Skip Frye.  Skip used to surf with Ajax on the nose of his board at Tourmaline Canyon, a spot whose name was recently officially changed to “Skip Frye Surfing Beach.”  He would bring him up to San Onofre sometimes too. 

One of my favorite surfing dogs was “Misha.”  Misha was a really cool little snauzer that was the surf partner of Antonio Ochoa, one of the first and longest running surfers in Mexico.  He would paddle out with her on his board and she would jump off and swim over to my board and hang out for awhile while waiting for a wave.  When a set came Antonio would give her a whistle and she would dive back in and be back on his board in time for the take off.  If anybody dropped in on them she would bark her head off until the offender would pull out.  And then when they paddled back out she would snarl at them.  If a really good wave would come along that Antinio wanted for himself he would toss her off and she would tread water until he got back out there.  She would sometimes also dive off the front of his board and dog-bodysurf, it was cool to see.  And if she got tired of surfing she would simply jump off and swim to shore. 

I had a dog that surfed once.  His name was “Boris.”  This was back in the mid 1960’s when I used to surf Cotton’s Point all the time.  One day Boris ran down to the edge of the water when I was getting ready to paddle out and he jumped onto my board.  So I figured what the heck, I would take him out for a wave.  We took off on a pretty big wave too, maybe six or seven feet.  Everything went well for most of the wave.  But as we were coming into the shorebreak the wave was really lining up and I was not sure how to handle the inside section with a dog sitting on the nose of my board.  In my moment of indecision I fell off the back and Boris was set free, hanging paws over the nose as he got totally barreled.  Bummer for Boris was that the wave closed out right on the sand and he ate it like a rat.  And man, when a dog eats it like a rat it is a big time wipe-out.  Boris and my board rolled up on the beach together and that was the last time he ever got anywhere near the water.  Sorry Boris. 

Hats off to all the surfing dogs out there.

Come and stay with Corky and his lovely wife Raquel at their home on the beautiful tropical beach of La Saladita, Mexico.  Located just 35 minutes north of Ixtapa and 45 minutes north of Zihautanejo along Mainland Mexico’s most fertile surf coastline, right at one of the premier left hand point breaks in the world.  The home is beachfront, with a swimming pool, television, internet (bring a laptop) and three guest rooms available.  Two with King sized beds and one with either a King or two twins.  Bookings are available from one to six people per stay.  You are provided with lodging, all your meals and drinks, personal surf coaching one on one from Corky and pick up and drop off at the airport in Zihautanejo.  Let us know your eating and drinking preferences and we will customize your stay to insure you the perfect vacation.  The house staff will take incredible care of you. This is a very romantic setting and is a great destination for couples as well as surfers in search of a great surf adventure.  As options we can also arrange for massages, day trips to historical sites and other activities that are available in the area.  We also have a number of surfboards and SUP’s available for our guests at no extra charge.  This is a chance of a lifetime to hang out and surf with one of the true legends of surfing as well as experience one of the most beautiful and tranquil spots on the planet. It is an amazing trip for surfers and non-surfers alike.   For more information and rates contact Corky direct at CORKYSURF@AOL.COM

SOME COMMENTS FROM PREVIOUS GUESTS.

I just came back from my fifth trip to Corky’s.   Now I’m back at my desk job frequently distracted with memories of the week of great

surf I just scored and fantasizing about the next trip.  Five trips.  Different times of the year.  Never disappointed with the surf.  From

the moment of my excited arrival to the emotional departure I was in Corky and Raquel’s friendly and secure hands.  The family style meals, the people, the stories, the jokes, the dogs and cats and goat, the 80 degree water and of course the fantastic surf.  It really doesn’t get any better than this.

Phil and Jill Retson,  San Diego

I have always experienced wonderful times on my surf trips to Corky’s.  From the time I am picked up from the airport to the time I am dropped off everything is taken care of by Corky and his staff.   Great surf, warm water, amazing food, Corkys custom drinks, comfortable private rooms, internet access, professional coaching and more is Corky’s way of saying Mi Casa Su Casa. At any level of surfing everyone will have a surf trip of a lifetime.  

Creighton Bellman, Newport Beach, Ca.

Corky and Raquel are the perfect hosts to what, in my opinion, is the ultimate surf getaway.  Raquel is a fantastic cook and Corky is, well…. Corky.  There is none other.  He can improve your surfing with just a few words and make you laugh your head off with many.  It’s like staying with friends without the pressure of having to deal with what “they want to do.”  This trip is all about what “you” want to do.  I have come by myself, with my family and with a couple of pals.  Each time the adventure was fantastic.  Their massage girl, Hilda, is incredible.  The neighbor, Timoteo..”the Iguana” Dorsey is an adventure in himself…..you will love him.  This is an upscale surf trip for those who want something better. 

Reggie Hopkins,  Tampa, Florida

Their home is beautiful, the food is to die for, the surf is incredible, the water is perfect, the vibe is tranquil and peaceful, there is everything you need right there and both my wife and I love it.  Corky taught my kids to surf and improved my skills in only a few days.  We plan on becoming regulars.

Larry Turnbull, Chino, Ca.

After one trip to Corky’s house I felt like part of the family.  After a dozen I know I am because if I misbehave he makes me sleep with the neighbors goat.  Raquel is wonderful and has the best hair in the world.  I keep a board there and try to make it at least two to four times a year.  You can get in more turns on one wave at that spot than you can in a whole month in Huntington Beach.  

Bruce Romano.  Huntington Beach, Ca.   

It was the best trip we ever had, anywhere.  It is sort of like if you were a golfer and got to spend a week at Arnold Palmers house.  What would you pay to hang with Arnie, play golf everyday with him and get pointers?  And on top of that have his wife cook for you every night and listen to stories about golf that would blow your mind.  This is like that for a surfer.  Corky is a very fun dude and his wife is not only beautiful but really a sweet person.  We became instant friends with both of them.  

Mark and Kathy Greenwall.  Norfolk, Virginia

“I want to die and come back as Corky.”

Bill Klector.  Tustin, Ca.

Thank you for your inquiry.  I offer an an all inclusive surf package to come and stay with me at my home on the beach just north of Zihautanejo/ Ixtapa area in Mexico.   All your meals, drinks, lodging, surfing, one on one coaching from me if you want it, pu and drop at the airport are included.  We have a perfect surf spot and have a pool, satalite tv, wireless internet if you bring a laptop and house staff to take incredible care of you.   Water is 80, air is 80.  Tranquil and beautiful. 

rates for a one week package are

$2600 for solo

$3600 for couple, $6800 for two couples

$2000 each for two or three surfers traveling together 

$1900 each for four to six (maximum)

kids $1200 under 16

plus tax.

You pay airfare and tip the house staff ($10 a day per person or $100 for solo is average). 

50% deposit holds your space.

(note:  for groups of three or more we do not book anyone else at the same time.)   

We still have some great weeks open.  When do you want to come.  Give me a time frame and I will let you know what dates are free.  Let me know asap though as we are filling up fast.  More info and pics are available at www.corkycarroll.com

thanks and adios from paradise

corky

By Corky Carroll

As many of you might know, especially those who have known me for awhile, I have what I presume to be the biggest surf bumps on the planet.  Surf bumps are growths on your body that grow to protect some place where a lot of unusual pressure takes place.  When I was young and we rode the big heavy boards, which we could paddle on our knees, I have them on my knees and feet.   My knees made it into more of the surf movies than my surfing did. 

When the boards went short and I had to paddle prone all the time the bumps on my knees and feet went away but were replaced by even larger ones on my rib cages.  Right now I have them about the size of half grapefruit.  My kids have called me “the man with four breasts” for years.  About ten years ago I got tired of people staring at them and talked to a plastic surgeon about getting rid of them.  He had never seen anything like them but assured me that he could take them off via Liposuction and they would never return.  After an extremely painful recovery and three months out of the water, at which time I could not even lay on my stomach in a soft bed, they grew right back even bigger than before.  After that I gave up and have just resigned myself to the fact that I am gonna have this funny looking body for the rest of my life.

People ask me about these bumps all the time.  Recently I got an email from a dude named David Cramer who had bumps similar to mine.  He was trying to figure out what to do about them.  He elected full surgical removal.  I asked him to let me know how it came out and I just got the following email from him. 

“I started surfing at the age of 15 and it’s my passion . It’s almost like these things just appeared one day. Two large lumps on each side of my ribcage. It just happens to be the main area of contact when paddling on a surfboard.  I am 47 now, and the first time I can recall noticing them was about 7 years ago when my daughter told me I had 4 breasts. It was when preparing for a surf trip in 2006 that I wondered if these lumps were due to the surfboard pressure from 30 years of surfing. While browsing the internet I came upon the Paddle Air website which linked me to Corky Carroll. As I read Corky’s story on the site, I knew right then we have the same condition. What disappointed me was that Corky had his lumps removed but grew back. I did purchase a paddle air vest, and not only did it relieve pressure on my lumps but just brought a new comfort level on the board.

January 2009, during a yearly medical checkup my doctor was amazed and had never seen lumps like this before. He assured me there was no medical concern and referred me to a plastic surgeon in town. I didn’t  follow up.

During a trip to Mexico at the end of 2009 my lumps seemed to have gotten larger, the size of cutting a baseball in half.. At my 2010 checkup the doctor asks why I had not done anything about it. I then decided to make some calls to the plastic surgeons he recommended. I found one that accepted my insurance.

Dr Vanik looked at the lumps and told me it was Lypoma, probably not cancerous but a small chance it could be. He had never seen Lypoma so large. I explained to him that I thought it was related to my surfing, but he didn’t seem to make the connection. Since they were so large he determined it would have to be removed via full surgery. The visit seemed too quick and he asked if I was ready to do surgery on Thursday. I never had surgery before, so I set it for 2 weeks.  

The worst part of the post surgery was the drainage tubes and bags that I had for about 3 days. The bags would fill up with fluid which had to be drained each night.  It’s now several weeks after the surgery and I’m feeling better. The two 3” scars are somewhat irritated but healing up well. Can’t wait to get back on my surfboard.”  David Cramer.

We will keep track of how this develops and follow up again later.

By Corky Carroll

I was reading about the situation in Laguna Beach the other day where artist Andrew Myers was taking back his bronze surfer statue, that he had been commissioned to make by the City, that was supposed to be installed at the foot of Brooks Street, home of the legendary surf break and also the oldest running surfing competition that I know of.  From what I get is that the locals asked that the statue not be place right in the center of the viewing area due to the fact that nobody wants to lose any view.  I guess that was all good.  But then there is also the fact that the statue, which is called “The Classic,” depicts a surfer holding a longboard and checking out the surf.  All that is fine and dandy too.  But there is a request that the artist change the color of the surfboard from bright orange to something else, I don’t know what but I guess anything other than bright orange.  The color doesn’t fit in with the beaches culture.  From what I understand this miffed Andrew the artist and he has pulled his placement of the statue.  

This is kind of a typical deal, artists are known to be temperamental and locals are known to be knit picky about stuff like bright colors in their neighborhood.  But, in respect to the locals I have to go along with the notion that a bright orange surfboard is not exactly something that would blend into the atmosphere.  Yes, it would grab your eye, and maybe that is what the artist was looking for, but would that be attractive or one of those deals where you go, “geeze, what was this guy thinking?”  The fact is that you don’t see too many bright orange surfboards and that is probably for a good reason.  He could have made it blue and it would have fit in the ocean view. 

This goes along with a little side story that fits in with the last two weeks columns about the sharks down at San Onofre.  The general consensus is that a dead whale that the lifeguards buried on the beach a long time ago is a main factor in the presence of the sharks hanging out there.  The feeling is that the decomposed remains of the whale seeps oils and stuff through the sand and into the ocean, and the great whites are attracted to that and stay in the area because they think there is some tasty whale jerky or something like that nearby.  Makes sense.   Well, not long after the whale thing they got a new park ranger in for San Onofre, it’s a state beach.  I guess the new dude wanted to get rid of the nudists that used to hang out at trail 6, which was the local nude beach for awhile.  So, when a dead sea lion washed up on the beach he had the lifeguards take it down and bury it in the middle of the nude dudes volley ball court, with just one fin sticking up.  He must have figured the smell would drive them away, but they didn’t seem to notice and keep right on playing nude volleyball.  Ya gotta love it, why is it that new guys always seem to have to “fix” something? 

I don’t know that the nudists were much of a menace.  I went down there one time, just out of curiosity (ok, I was hoping to check out some hot nude babes) and there was just a bunch of fat old dudes and one really not pretty woman.  I would not use the term “ugly,” as it is disrespectful, but she was so not pretty that her nickname was “the Wolfman.” 

I am not so sure that she and her naked pals were all that view enhancing either, but at least they were off by themselves and seemingly were not bothering anybody or their oceanic views.  In Laguna Beach this statue was gonna be right there where everybody known to man would see it.  Is a bright orange surfboard that much of an eye sore?  Maybe, maybe not.  Beauty and aesthetics are in the eye of the beholder.  I mean, you are talking to a guy who rides a board airbrushed to look like a cow.  Hey!  There is the answer.  Change the board to cow colors and the statue can be me.  (Shut up, I can hear you gagging from here.)   

By Corky Carroll

I had a very bad experience this past week and I feel that sharing it with you might shed some light on why we all need to really mellow out in the water and cut way back on all the aggression and heavy vibes in our crowded conditions.  I was happily enjoying a nice surf session the other day.  The waves were good and it was a beautiful morning.  All of a sudden two guys that know started some sort of verbal warfare between the two of them.  I heard one of them tell the other to shut his mouth and then paddle away. 

“Humph!” I thought, wondering what that was all about.

A short while later there was some more loud words and then they got into a little skirmish right there in the lineup.  I was sitting about twenty feet away and saw and heard the whole thing.  I was thinkin that this was really a bad situation as I am good friends with one of the guys father and also good friends with the other guys girlfriend.  Normally when guys go at it in the water I look at it as entertainment.  But I guess when its people you know it’s not so funny.  I didn’t think this was funny at all, sad was more like it.  The whole issue was pretty stupid all the way around.  But nobody got hurt and they went their separate ways and I thought that was the end of it.

But later in the day I found out that one of the guys had called the police and was pushing for charges to be filed and it was pretty serious.  The other guy had been arrested and taken to jail.  And on top of all that I was being told that as an eye witness that I was required to go in and make a statement of what I saw.  This was NOT what I wanted to do.  So I went over and tried to talk the guy who was pressing the charges into mellowing out and letting it drop.  He wouldn’t do it.  On top of it the guys girlfriend was also friends with the other guys father.  I reminded her that we were all friends and the last thing the father needed was any kind of trouble, he has had his share already.  But no dice, they were pushing ahead.

I went in as asked and told what I saw and tried to calm the situation down by putting it into perspective as “just one of those dumb things that happen,” hoping it would not come to anything more than what it already had.  The truth was that both of them were at fault in my eyes.  One should have shut up when the other guy told him too and the other guy didn’t really need to call the cops.  But that is just my opinion.  I did my best to calm it all down.

Then I get an email from the father of the guy who got arrested blaming it all on me and telling me how he is never going to forgive me for “telling the cops it was my sons fault when he didn’t do a thing.”  

Argh.  His son was not innocent, neither was the other guy.  It was like they both were intent on confrontation.  And I did not blame his son, nor the other guy.  I just told what I saw and heard.  My best explanation I could give was to compare it to twenty hungry guys looking at one chicken.  They all want the chicken and the two strongest would up fighting over it.  Words were said, blows where thrown, bla bla bla.  In the middle of the whole thing while everyone was watching the two dude paddle away a great wave came along and I grabbed it while nobody else was looking.  None the less, it was a real lose-lose situation. 

By Corky Carroll

Geeze, I was just thinking that if I had a dollar for every time I have stood on the Huntington Beach Pier checking out the surf I would be a rich dude now instead of a semi surf peasant.  Oh well, it is what it is and I’m not complaining.  There is something really nice about the morning surf check from the pier that never seems to go away.  Maybe it is just the tranquility of being out there in the fresh morning air, the sound of the surf and the seagulls buzzing around.  I don’t know exactly what it is, but whatever it is I like it.  Especially with a nice hot cup of coffee and a cozy sweatshirt on to stay warm. 

You can see a lot of great action from up there on most any given morning if there is at least a small to medium size swell running.  It is a fact that we have some of the greatest young surfing talent right here in Surf City than most anywhere on the planet.  It’s because there is almost always some sort of surf here.  It might not always be the best, but there is always some sort of waves to ride.  And when it’s on, it’s world class beach break. 

There have always been a hard core pack of really good local surfers here.  I was thinking about this not long ago when I was watching some kid who I have seen out there but have no idea what his name is.  The guy was just working the peak on the north side like it was a glove made perfectly to fit his hand.  I asked somebody who he was and they said it was so and so’s boy and he was the hot teen on the block at the moment. 

Back in the 1950’s there was “Chucker” and Louie Tartar and a young skinny Robert August.  Then Chris Marsalles and John Boozer.  Young David Nuuhiwa blew us all away.  Herbie Fletcher and the Hawk brothers.  Buddy Lamas.  The Turner brothers.  Brett Simpson.  And a zillion others that there is not room to mention.  This place just breeds good surfers. 

So I am standing there this one morning and I am watching this kid just shred the place.  In the middle of that there was this one guy who was sitting right in the right spot the whole time.  But every time a set came this other guy on a huge longboard would paddle around him and snake him for the wave.  Then the hot kid would be on the other one and the guy never would get a wave.  This went on for awhile.  Then on the biggest and best wave I saw of the morning the guy was taking off when the longboard guy did the same ol’ thing and snuck over inside of him.  The guy took off anyway and faded the tanker into the pit.  He got a long perfect barrel and the snaker ate it like a rat. 

I finished my coffee and headed to my car to grab my board with a big smile thinking that I had just seen justice served.   Just another day at the Pier.

By Corky Carroll

Every now and then I get an email from a reader that just has to be shared with you.  Today is one of those days.  In this day and age of “who even knows what dangers lurk,” the following story is indicative of the current level of fear factor involved when surfing the local waters.  It was sent in by Jeff McKenney and is about a scary moment he had while surfing the “cliffs” in Huntington Beach.

“You won’t believe this.  It was the scariest thing that ever happened to me in the water.  I got to the cliffs about 5:40 this morning. Looks smaller than yesterday but

direction is more from the south and I figured there’s a little south-north drift. Low tide and some new sand back on

the beach made it an easy walk south, didn’t have to do the rock dance.  Walked almost to Golden West watching the darker set waves, judging conditions. Some of the waves looked a little crumbly and I wondered if

there was some wind on it.

Sunrise is 6:20 this morning. I paddled out just before 6AM, still pretty

dark, nobody around. Paddled out pretty far south of the gap. The water was rippled and bouncy, still wondering about the wind conditions, morning

sickness. Got out to where I figured the waves were breaking, sat up on my

board and started to get my bearings in the lineup. Still twilight but could see the dark sets. Just starting to relax, all alone, waiting for a nice peeling left or more daylight, whatever comes first.

Then suddenly my peaceful solitude was ROCKED! About 20-30 yards straight to my right (north) I saw what looked like the nose of a dolphin breaching the water. But it couldn’t be a dolphin because there was a big white patch on its topside. It was swimming straight at me - and FAST! So fast it was creating whitewater and leaving a wake. It’s head bobbing above and below the

water accelerating right at me. Your mind races in these life/death situations,

- this thing is big, its creating a big wake.

- its swimming straight at me VERY FAST, what is it?

- it’s not a dolphin because it has a big white patch

- only killer whales or great whites are dark with white patches

- no other dolphins around, that’s not good.

- where’s the dorsal fin, can’t see it.

- its head is breaching the water each stroke, where’s the tail

- sharks don’t swim up/down like this thing, what the hell is it?

Thoughts racing, adrenaline pumping, instinctive defensive reactions…all simultaneous. Get my dangling legs out of the water, get my board between me and the shark, scream at it as loud as I can. Nope, screaming doesn’t

work -it’s still coming straight at me. Ok, I’m holding my board like a shield. The board can take the hit straight on. Hope he doesn’t break right thru it. Keep screaming but get ready for the hit. He’ll go under & try to hit me from below -like the poor guy that got eaten in San Diego. Nope, he’s not going under, still coming straight at me on the surface, nose first, like a torpedo.

He’s getting real close, just about ready for impact, doesn’t look quite as large. What the hell is it??? Now it looks more like a diseased, discolored,

rabid seal - like the rotted ones you see lying on the beach from time to time. Doesn’t matter what it is, he’s still gonna torpedo me -HARD, where’s

his teeth? Crouched behind my board, holding it straight up (tombstoned), legs protected, ready for impact, screaming stopped (wasn’t working anyway).

Instead of a head on ram, the shark/seal/whatever buzzed just inches from

me. I turned my board slightly to let it by, and then kept turning to get a good look as the creature ducked back under the surface and swam south. I got a good enough look to know exactly what it was. Maybe some of you have

already figured it out. I’m really embarrassed to tell you…. Well, it was the buoy that’s been anchored in the line up just south of flat rock. IT

wasn’t swimming south toward me, I was drifting very FAST north right at it!

and right past it!

By Corky Carroll

For the past several years there have been continuous shark sightings in the San Onofre Surfing Beach area.  It has been documented on television and in the papers many times along with photos and video taken for helicopters and from the beach.  It seem that some great whites have taken up residence in the area and seem to be willing to co-exist with the surfers fairly well so far.  At least they haven’t eaten anybody that we know of, yet.  The other day I got an email from my pal and avid SUP surfer Ron Chrislip.  Ron has been the main influence on me to take up paddling on the SUPs and he is so stoked on it that it is all he ever talks about anymore.  A typical conversation with him goes like this:

“Hey Ron, howsit?”

“I love SUPs, you gotta do it.  It is the best thing since sex and you will never go back once you start.”

“Cool, so what’s new.?

“My new SUP, it’s amazing.” 

“O.K., see ya later then.”

“Yeah, I’ll be on my SUP.” 

It goes on like that and no matter how many times you try and change the subject he reverts it back to SUPs.  He is a lawyer, so he is good at directing the flow of the conversation.  Anyway, he is stoked and that is a good thing.  To be really and clearly “INTO” something, no matter what it is, I think is healthy.  Well, maybe not if its cannibalism or something, but you know what I mean.  So, speaking of man eating, here is Ron’s email to me:

“This morning I paddled out on my SUP at dog patch. I had cut my toe on the shore rocks on the way out and my toe was bleeding, although I didn’t know because the water was too cold.  After about an hour some guy paddles buy and says he saw a big shark. I look on the horizon to see if I could see a fin, then I look down and a 9 foot great white shark was staring at me in front of my board about 2 feet away.  Lucky I was standing and not dragging my bloody toe in the water. I almost fell on top of the shark. He stayed for about 10 seconds slowly circling in front of me. It seemed like an eternity. My board was slowly drifting toward him until I was almost on top the curious bugger, and then he slowly, very slowly, swam away toward a kayaker 50 yards away. I told the dude there is a shark swimming right towards you. We both slowly paddled in. It was about 100 yards to shore. I had this weird feeling that the shark was following me in.  I didn’t fall or get off my board until it hit the sand. When I got off 2 dudes came up and said they had seen the same shark-9-10 foot great white. One guy had fallen in the impact zone and as he was splashing around the tail of the shark nearly hit him. It turns out that a great white juvenile has been scaring the poopoo out of people at San Onofre for about 7 years. The latest was 3 weeks ago when it knocked some guy off his SUP. Now my name is on the list of buyers for new shorts. Look it up on the  internet. San Onofre is now the great white shark capital of the world. As I said I didn’t realize my foot was bleeding until I came on the beach and saw a trail of blood to my car.  You see more stuff on the SUP, good or bad.”

Speaking of eating things, tomorrow is Mothers Day.  No, the thought of “they always eat their young” is not what comes to mind.  But with a few of my pals it might not have been a bad idea on their moms part.  But what I wanted to say is that a Mama day gift basket from Wonderland Bakery makes a great gift item.  They are in Newport Beach and do great things, including the new “Corky Cowacookie Surf Basket” that we have been lovingly designing.  Happiness to all the mamas out there. 

Lastly, you still have a week to get your entry into the “name my new massage chair” contest.  Entries close on Friday.