LOCAL TALENT PART 4

By Corky Carroll

Today is the start of the huger than huge Hurley U.S. Open of Surfing taking place at the Huntington Beach Pier.  It runs through July 26^th.  I have been doing a series on local talent; surfers who were mostly unknown to the world at large yet were a big part of a certain surf scene in an Orange County beach town at a certain time in our recent history.  The recent history being the years that I have memory of.  In respect to the big contest going on in Huntington Beach I thought I might just give a little running history of great local surfers who came out of Huntington Beach through the years.  

Going back to the late 1950’s and early 1960’s there were some very good guys surfing the Huntington Beach Pier.  Louie Tarter was a hot young kid in ’59 and he won the Junior Men’s division at the first “West Coast Surfing Championships” that year.  Naturally the contest became the “United States Championship” a couple of years later and has now become the U.S. Open of Surfing.  This year is the 50^th anniversary of the event.  There was also Chuck “Chucker” Burgess.  The hot young kid was Chris Marseille.  Chris would move to Newport when he was started High School but at one time was THE hot guy at the pier. 

In the early to mid sixties there was a very solid group of guys surfing there.  John Boozer, Tommy Leonardo, Blind Lee Beltz and John Overmyer to name a few.  John Boozer would have been the top dog at that time and he went on to win a few major surfing contests up and down the coast.  Tom Leonardo, known as “Leo the Lip” and “Top Mouth on the Coast,” was an excellent surfer but was known more for his caustic verbiage than his talent in the water.  He passed that along to Chuck Dent in later years.  There were also the “Frog,” the “Turtle,” and “Rebel.”  Frog has been a local at the pier forever it seems, the dude is still there. 

Somewhere in the mid 60’s David Nuuhiwa moved into town.  Obviously he was far from “local” talent.  His surfing in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s at Huntington Beach would go down as some of the best surfing ever done anywhere at anytime.  David is one of the greatest surfers off all time.  Also in town those years was a hot young guy named Herbie Fletcher.  Herb was really good and went on to be pretty well known not only as a surfer but both as a surf industry guy as well as the father of Christian and Nathan Fletcher.  

Then there was the Hawk brothers.  Sammy Hawk went to Hawaii for a few years and became one of the leading surfers on the North Shore.  His brothers Chris and Tom where both talented riders as well as very cool guys. 

Then came Buddy Llamas.  I don’t know how to describe Bud other than to say that this kid could flat out surf.  He made a little mark on the world surf scene for awhile but was more known here in Orange County and in Huntington Beach particularly.  Buddy was “da Man” at the Pier for a long time.  Even later when he was older and had gained a few extra pounds the guy was outstanding out there.  I remember one day in the mid 90’s I was paddling out on the north side of the pier and I saw this guy just get covered by a huge wave on the south side coming through the pier.  When he came flying out of the curl I saw that it was Buddy Llamas.  Way past his prime and way overweight.  And WAY GOOD.  Maybe it was Bud that gave me the confidence to just go ahead and get chubby and not worry about not being able to still surf.  Thanks Bud.  Now I am old and fat and at least “think” I can still surf.  Who cares about reality after a certain point anyway?  

In the 90’s, which is as far as I am going to go with this one, there were a whole slew of amazing surfers in town.  I would watch these guys day in and day out and just marvel at how good they were and yet other than here in town, did I mention I lived there too, they were almost unknown.  Ryan and Timmy Turner.  Timmy was the hot young up and comer and their parents own the “Sugar Shack” restaurant up on Main Street.  That is the main breakfast hangout in town.  Also Danny Nichols.  Danny was one of those just really stoked guys who loved to surf and had a wonderful personality.  A true surf gremmie if there ever was one.  I loved to watch him come off the lip on big days in the winter on the north side with this huge Cheshire cat grin on his face.  Then there was, and always is, George “Mayor of Main Street” Lambert.  Gboy.  George is like everybody in Earths best pal.  We worked together for a few years at Huntington Surf ‘n Sport and I have never known anybody who knew more people than George.  Or maybe it was that they knew HIM.  For every one person who came in the shop or called on the phone for me there were fifty for George.  He not only was a great surfer but he would win the Mr. Personality award if living in town where a pageant.   

LOCAL TALENT PART 3

By Corky Carroll

Continuing with my series of stories about hot locals who were important to the surfing culture in one Orange County city or another during a certain time.  This is about surfers who most people probably never heard of yet excelled and were a part of the growth of our sport. 

Today I wanna talk about the surf scene in San Clemente during the mid 1970’s.  That was a weird time for surfing here in Southern California.  After the World Championships that were held in San Diego in 1972 almost the entire list of top professional surfers in California bailed out of the competition scene completely.  The entire focus of the “world” surfing picture switched from here to Australia and Hawaii exclusively.  California went “underground.”  This is not to say that there was no surfing going on.  There was more surfing going on than ever really, and much of it very good. 

San Clemente has always been home for many great surfers.  Being close to so many excellent surf spots at the south end of Orange County has made it a breeding ground for more than it’s share of talent.   Dino Andino, Matt Archibald, the Beshan brothers, the Fletcher brothers, my older son Clint, to name a few.  The period that I am going to talk about today was just a little before those guys time. 

The “scene” in town was more or less divided into the actual surfing locations and the pier.  The pier was the “surf social” spot.  Everybody went down there to hang out, interact with the local cast of female talent etc etc.   It was more or less the mating zone, so to speak.  But occasionally the surf would get almost good there too.  Everybody surfed there a little but for the most part it was more of a social hang out. 

I was one of the dudes who left the competitive surf world at the end of 1972.  I spent three years in Idaho after that, skiing and playing music.   When I came back to my home in Capistrano Beach in the spring of 1975 there were a whole new crop of extremely good young surfers dominating the line up at my favorite spot, Cotton’s Point.  At the top of the list was a kid named Tommy Castleton who looked like he could be a world class pro if he kept going.  He was a good-looking guy and very likeable.  I could see this guy going a long way in the sport.   His brother Dale was very good too.  There were also Eric and Mike Hopps who were from the San Onofre Hopps family.  Both of these guys could flat out surf.  Eric might have been one of the best unknown surfers ever to come out of the O.C.  Then there was surfer/shaper Max McDonald who could do both very well.  Max and I shared many a great day at Cotton’s before it was very crowded.  

Then there was Yale Espoy and the Peterson brothers.  One of the brothers went by the nickname “Pudder.”   Pudder was a great kid and I liked him a lot, also could really surf.  Yale was a totally cool dude who moved into Cypress Shores.  His parents bought Jim Arness’s (Gunsmoke on TV) house after he had his knee surgery and couldn’t surf much anymore.  Yale’s parents opened a restaurant in town called the “City Yard Bar and Grill.”  We all worked there.  Yale learned how to cook and was an assistant chef, I was a waiter and entertainment manager, and I think Pudder was a busboy.  Mike Hopps was a waiter too I think.  It was the local all star surf lineup crew.  A great formula for disaster.  My favorite memory of that job involved Yale and this very cranky chef we had.  This guy had been a Navy chef and in his eyes the social pecking order of life on our planet was first God, then Chefs, then Elvis, then the President.  At the bottom were waiters and anybody else who worked in a restaurant.  This dude’s pride and joy was his cheesecake.  He made us try and charge $15 for a little piece.  That was a lot in 1975.  One morning he came to work and the beautiful cheesecake that he had made the night before had an old smelly tennis shoe in the middle of it.  He went postal and was out to behead the person who did it.  But he had to figure out who it was.  It could have been anybody, we all hated the dude.  It later came out that it was Yale.  I was so proud of him for that.  I wish I had done it. 

A USERS GUIDE TO THE U.S. OPEN OF SURFING

By Corky Carroll

First off, Happy 4^th of July everybody.  See you at the parties later on, I am invited right?  Remember to have fun yet be safe O.K.  I can’t afford to lose any readers.  Taxis are cheaper than caskets.

July is the big month for surfing here in Orange County.  It’s the time that the big dog and kitty surf show comes to Huntington Beach each year.  And this year is the biggest yet with not only the 50^th anniversary of the United States Championships but also the 100^th anniversary of Huntington “Surf City” Beach.  It’s like a surfathon festival for the ages.  There is even a surfing contest for dogs.  Yes, the four legged tail-wagging kind.  It’s just one fun deal after the next.

The big event is the Hurley U.S. Open of Surfing running from July 18^th through July 26^th.  Named this year for the sponsor company, Hurley International.  I like to see this because the founder of that group is a local kid, Bob Hurley.  Bob is a good surfer, former shaper and O.C. local.  Perfect match for the Open. 

Zillions of you are gonna flock down to Huntington Beach that week to see this event.  Many from local areas but also many coming from farther away.  This is for those of you who would like to make the most of your visit to “Surfin’ U.S.A. 2009.”  

First off you are gonna want to take the time to really check this event out.  There are so many things that go on during this week.  The best thing is to stay around and soak in the whole adventure.  Check into a local hotel and make it a vacation.  My choice would be the brand new SHOREBREAK HOTEL at the corner of Pacific Coast Highway and 5^th Street.  This is two blocks from the pier and easy walking distance to everything.  Not only is it a beautiful hotel but also it has a great restaurant/bar called Zimzala.  You might see me there.  If ya do it’s totally cool to say hi and buy me a drink, hahahaha.  (no really).

Next you are gonna want to get a schedule of events, easily obtainable at the contest area below the pier on the south side.  Pick out the surfers you might want to see in the early rounds.  And it’s a good idea to watch them in the early rounds, as you can never count on who will be there in the end.  This year’s early crowd favorite is three time U.S. Open Champion Rob Machado.  Rob is looking to be the first to win it 4 times.  This is meaningful to me as I also won it three times.  It’s kinda like being one of those dudes who has held a record for a long time and then some new hot young ace comes along and is all set to break it.  On the outside you are all, “good luck, I wish you well.”  But inside you are going, “catch a rail you chump.”  (Not really, Rob is a great guy and great surfer and I hope he wins). 

Along with the surfing event itself there are all kinds of other stuff to check out.  On Thursday morning there will be the inductions into the SURFERS WALK OF FAME held in front of Jack’s Surf Shop at the corner of P.C.H. and Main Street.  My pal Mark Martinson is being honored as Surf Champion this year.  Then on Friday morning they will hold the inductions into the SURFERS HALL OF FAME on the other corner, across the street, in front of Huntington Surf ‘n Sport.  Jeff Hackman, Joey Buran, Pat O’Connel and legendary surf movie mogul Bruce Brown are getting inducted.  Both are events you will want to take in. 

There is so much more.  The whole week is a total babefest.  Some of you may be interested in watching some of that action along with the surfing stuff.  But no matter what it is that you are out there to view its important that you be prepared.  Put on a ton of sunblock BEFORE you go outside.  Then put some more on when you get outside and take it with you to put some more on later.  One of those little tubes of lipblock are good to have in your pocket because you can also use that on your nose and face.  Sunglasses are a big must.  The glare off of the ocean will burn your eyes..  Besides, they are good to conceal the real direction you happen to be looking just in case you are making an attempt at being stealth.  (Are thongs still in?) And a hat is a good idea too.  Drink lots of water.  Have fun, I will see you there.

LOCAL TALENT PART 2

By Corky Carroll

Last week I began what will probably be a sort of “on again and off again” little series on local talent.  What I am thinking is to pick a surf spot or a town in Orange County and a certain period of time and talk about the hot locals there at that time.  All through the years there has been a hotbed of fantastic surfing talent that goes virtually unheard of by all but those on hand in that area at that time.  Some of these people have world-class talent but for some reason or another never make it past “local” status.  Others are just part of the changing surf culture that has evolved over the years and that they were there, then, made a difference in the evolvement of the sport and culture.

Today I am thinking I will focus on the Seal Beach surf scene in the early to mid 1960’s.  There was a lot of heavy talent in that town in those days.  The big names were Jack and Mike Haley, Robert August, Bill Fury, Denny and Sam Buehl, Willy and Danny Lenahan and Eddie Bonham.  

Jack Haley won the first West Coast Surfing Championship at the Huntington Beach pier in 1959.  He was a totally notorious and colorful dude who was known as much for his “classic” deeds as his surfing ability.  He was known to stow away on the cruise ships to Hawaii as well as having actually stolen a train in Mexico one time.  Yeah, a train.  As I remember the story he saw a train sitting there one day and it was running but nobody was in the locomotive.  He jumped in, just to check it out he says, and pulled a lever or two and it started moving.  So he just took off down the track and rode it quite a ways before figuring out how to stop it.  These are the kinds of things he did often in those days.  There are some party stories that I cannot write about here.  In later life Jack became all “good and proper.”  He never liked having those old stories told.  But this was his surf legend. 

His little brother, Mike Haley, won the West Coast Championships the next year and went on to become one of the great surfers in California as well as on the North Shore of Hawaii.  Mike was sort of one of the “beautiful” people in the Laguna Beach era of love during the late 1960’s when he and his wife Sherry owned a popular clothing boutique called “Leopard Spots.”

Naturally Robert August became the most well known name from that group.  He was the star of Bruce Brown’s eternal surf epic, “Endless Summer” and “Endless Summer 2.”  He also has been one of the longest lasting and most respected surfboard shapers and manufacturers in the world.  Robert’s smooth style was honed in the shorebreak in front of his parents’ home at 13^th Street.  His dad, Blackie, was one of the old school greats.  Robert is still surfing great and spends much of his time at his home in Costa Rica. 

The Buehl Brothers were both hot surfers and very colorful characters.  Sam went off to India to hang out with Monks and stuff like that.  Denny was a very hot local goofy-foot who was known as, “the guppy.”  The guppy was good at living up to his nickname.  I loved this guy, always had something cool going on and always stoked.

Danny Lenahan and Eddie Bonham were both young hot guys on the scene.  They both won some stuff on the contest scene as juniors.  I always thought that Danny was going to become a really big name in surfing because he had a great style and was very good very young.  Somewhere along the line he veered off and didn’t stick with the sport.  But at that time those two dudes were among the best young talent in California. 

There were also these two guys who hung out together named Dave Browning and Gary Wassue.  Sometimes they would come down and surf at Surfside near my house.  I can still vividly remember Steve Rowe coming over and yelling, “Browning and Wassue are out and ripping the place apart!”  He was right.  Funny how these little bits of surf memory stick with you.  I had a giant crush on Dave’s little sister, Carrie.  They had the first color television that I ever saw.